Living High on the Hokianga
July 4th, 2008It’s that time of the year when I take my annual holiday. Being a tourism operator precludes me from a proper summer break, so winter it is.
My city for that week wasn’t Wellington, but in fact Haruru Falls, just out of Paihia. If you know your geography, then that certainly isn’t near the Hokianga harbour. However the story unfolds…
After lapping up the bodily pleasures of the east coast centres like Paihia, Kerikeri and Russell (and my, aren’t they blessed with the most wonderful produce?), we ventured west to Hokianga. The intention was to have a cuppa in Opononi then take in the might Tane Mahuta in the Waipoua forest and be back in Haruru Falls in time for happy hour!
We left patchy weather in Haruru Falls and an hour or so later we were in Opononi on the Hokianga in brilliant sunshine having that coffee.
Who has visited the Hokianga? We certainly hadn’t and it took our breath away. The New Zealand of my childhood memories awaited to be discovered. The harbour was magnificent, the sun a feast of glowing warmth and the jewel in the crown were the locals.
The people of the Hokianga are very connected individuals; connected with whenua, connected with the seasons and certainly connected to each other! There were more “aunties” making rewena bread, or hand-slicing kumara chips at the Opononi Tavern than I could count. The barmen were certainly all nephews, if I believed them!
We were sold on the place, and our intention for a day trip turned out to be a 2 night unscheduled stopover in a quiet natural paradise.
Our trip to see Tane Mahuta in the forest turned into a desire to experience the unique Twilight Encounter tour from Footprints Waipoua (www.footprintswaipoua.co.nz) the foremost tour company leaving nothing but footprints in the precious Waipoua forest. The tour was certainly worth spending the extra nights in Hokianga to explore the taonga of Tane Mahuta. We thank Bill and Tawhiri from the bottom of our hearts for giving us an experience of a lifetime, with the eerie call of the kiwi as a backdrop to the forest setting.
Our accommodation left nothing to chance as we stayed at the Copthorne Hokianga in a fabulous room right on the waterfront. The lapping of the harbour at night and the scene of the breakers on the bar from our courtyard was unbeatable. Oh, and the smoked snapper and corn chowder rather perfect too!
So yes, we lived high in the Hokianga for a couple of days, and undoubtedly we’ll return to refresh the memory and feel the spirit of that special, special place.
Ka kite,
Jennifer
Jennifer Looman is the director of Wild About Wellington Limited.



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